#Light table for slides plus#
#Light table for slides free#

Just be sure to only use calcium free (soften) water to avoid water spots.

I have rewashed and dried negatives as I described to get the curl out. Those blotter books are for matt and RC (Resin Coated) prints, not negatives. I used to have these specialty print drying books back in the day. No surprise there since the state of tension in the gelatin had nothing to make it relax. I believe your negative will be much flatter and easy to work with.

That will cause the water to run off in sheets and not leave water marks.Hang it up to dry in a dust free environment and when it is just dry to the touch press it between the pages of a heavy book for a couple of days. The negative is curled because the emulsion is extremely dehydrated and the emulsion shrinkage is causing the curl.Ĭompressing the negative between the pages of a heavy book can help but usually not much.Ī better solution is to rewash the negative and rinse in a photo detergent solution like Kodak Photo Flo 200 using calcium free water. Instead of clamping the frame or using anti Newton glass to sandwich the negative I think it would be simpler to flatten the negative. Maybe I'll resort to the ES-2's 24x36 apertured holder and then stitch panos (which would entail clamping on image areas).Ī 'lucky' loading, i.e., both edges are still in contact I want something that reveals more than a 36mm width when I convert my Widelux frames. I'm looking forward to hearing anyone's experiences with the Essential holder regarding nightmare strips like this one.

There's so much lost opportunity here for achieving a good grip - this design looks more like an optional variant, not a sole one. This hanging on by fingernails isn't for me. I understand that there are some people who like to reveal the sprocket holes but I'm not one of them. In many cases there's no contact at all with one of the edges and the strip flops out. Some of my 35mm color negs have a heavy curl that completely stump the 35mm version of the digitaLIZA. Everything looked good, so I went back and ordered one. I googled Essential Film Holder to find a third party opinion and I found a detailed YouTube video review from a credible sounding guy in Australia. It has an internal rechargeable battery but I'll be running it from USB. The panel is sized nicely for selecting which frames to digitize. Diffusion requires both scattering angle and distance in order to achieve the mixing.

#Light table for slides plus#

Just so I can be '110% sure' about the evenness I'm going to add a diffusion sheet plus some standoff distance. Los Altos / Pentax 6x7 55mm f/4 / Nikon Z 7 60mm Micro f/2.8 G The sky gradient is true to the slide, in which the sun was just outside the right hand side of the frame. I laid the Lomo digitaLIZA frame directly onto the light panel which would be a sure way to reveal any dot pattern - there's not going to be any in this case because the panel is edge-lit. The camera is supported in a jury rig which didn't achieve perfect parallelism, so the right side is soft. Here's my initial test shot of a 6x7 Kodachrome. B&H didn't waste any time with the free shipping, also nice. I'm seeing impressive results in the Kaiser Slimlite Plano which I picked up after reading this thread. I'm seeing chap LED units that have some kind of grey dox matrix sandwiched in there? And they age at a rate you'd prefer to not think about, but probably should. You would need to keep to a routine of allowing incandescent lamps to thermally stabilize. If it's what you already have then go for it and be sure to use custom white balancing. Etc.Īre some of the older ones that use 'light bulbs' worth pursuing?